This tutorial for building a DIY pegboard for a craft room shows building, installation, and organization of a pegboard. See step by step instructions from how to build, how to hang, and how to make into a gorgeous decor piece!
From the time we started planning our craft/multipurpose room, I knew that the one organization feature I wanted in the craft space was a giant pegboard that would neatly display our supplies out in the open.
I wanted this to be a bright and happy space. What better way to showcase colorful craft supplies than to display them in a functional way? I loved the idea of a white pegboard backdrop against a rainbow of ribbon, markers, and thread. Plus, the pegboard is such a great organization tool – it allows me to know what supplies we have in a single glance and it keeps clutter off of the surfaces in our craft room. This was an absolutely crucial part of organizing this space (something I talked about a little bit more last week).
This is one of those projects that really doesn't require a lot of woodworking expertise. If you know how to make simple angle cuts, you can do this! And the cost is pretty minimal too – we were able to complete this whole project for around $50.
Let's take a look at how we did it!
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Craft Room Peg Board Supplies
- 1 piece 4×8′ pegboard
- 3 8′ pieces finger joint crown moulding
- 3 8′ pieces of 1×2″ lumber
- miter saw
- wood glue
- staple gun
- 3″ screws
- air nailer (not required, but helps a lot) – if not using an air gun, you'll need small 1″ nails and a hammer
- white gloss or semi-gloss paint
How to Build
Once you've gathered your supplies, make the initial cuts. We cut our pegboard down to 3×6′ for this project (this allowed us to only use 3 pieces of crown moulding – if using the full 4×8′, you'll need one more piece).
If you're using our measurements, you can also go on and cut one piece of crown moulding in half. You'll use these two pieces for the shorter sides.
Measure 1/2″ in from each corner of your pegboard. This is where the inside corners of crown moulding will meet.
Cut an initial 45 degree angle (outside longer than inside) on one end of the crown moulding. Line the inside corner up with the 1/2″ mark you just made.
Make a mark at where this piece of moulding hits the 1/2″ mark at the opposite corner. This will be the bottom of the inside angle of your other 45 degree cut on this piece.
Once cut, the two inside corners on the moulding should hit those 1/2″ marks on your pegboard. Cut a matching piece of moulding for the opposite side; follow the same process for cutting the top and bottom moulding pieces as well.
Lay out to double check cuts; the inside corners of your “square” of moulding surrounding the pegboard should hit at those 1/2″ marks all around. This will allow a comfortable overhang to allow you to attach the moulding to the pegboard.
Next, roughly cut your 1×2's to make a square around the back of your pegboard. This doesn't have to be perfect by any means; nobody will ever see it, but it will allow your pegboard to sit off of the wall, allowing you to use pegs easily. I recommend getting this pretty close to the outside of the pegboard, making sure a whole row of holes lines up with the 1×2.
Use wood glue to attach the 1x2s to the back of the pegboard (you'll screw through this in the next step, so no need to have it super secure just yet).
Mark the studs on the wall you'll be attaching your pegboard to. Once the wood glue is dry on the back, use 3″ screws to go through the front of the pegboard, into the 1×2's, and into the studs in the back.
We put a screw on both the top and bottom at each stud (roughly 16″ apart). Make sure you use a level to keep everything nice and straight!
Next, attach your crown moulding frame. We used staples to help us keep it together while attaching to the pegboard (optional, but it did help us). Just a couple in each corner gave it a little bit of stability.
Again, use a level (and your previously marked 1/2″ corners) to make sure everything is lined up. An air compressor helped us get the nails in quickly. This is definitely a 2-person job – you'll need one person to hold and level and another to nail.
Once the moulding is nailed in, you can caulk and paint! You'll definitely need the caulk to fill in any gaps in the moulding corners; I also put a coat of glossy white on the moulding to give it a nice finish. If painting, make sure to tape off the moulding first.
Use your finger to smear the caulk into the creases. Next, I like to use a wet paper towel to lightly go over the surface to clean off any excess.
Finally, the fun part: fill it up!
I didn't buy many accessories for this; I bought a peg board hook kit and an extra set of L-hooks to organize my thread. That's really most everything you need to get started. I also picked up the colorful bins from Dollar Tree and, as shown below, added pencil cups from the Dollar Tree as pretty and contrasting marker/pen holders. With a few leftover wooden dowels to hold loose ribbon, I was done!
This pegboard is absolutely the focal point of the craft room that I hoped it would be. It's pretty, it's functional, and it's open, checking every box of what I wanted this space to be. It's a low-cost organization solution that I think is really a must for any craft space!
And we're not done with DIYs in this room! I've got a huge DIY on the other side of the room coming your way next week – our murphy bed has been such a fun undertaking and I'm so excited to share it with you guys. Stay tuned!
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